I spoke with my contact at Reese about what you are experiencing and he sent me back this:
The 3/8” bolt and nut shown below is the stop so slider unit does not slide completely off the rails. This bolt set-up should be loose so that it can slide fore and aft along the slot in the slider. When moving slider assy. to the Tow position the bolt would slide over to one side of the slot and then when moving slider assy. to the Maneuvering position the bolt would slide over to the other side... view full answer...
I spoke with my Roadmaster representative, and explained the problem you are experiencing.
There is not a repair kit available for the problem you describe, but my rep told me that is sounds as if the anvil bolt on the end of the inner arm has come loose. This is a very simple repair. Remove the inner arm from the outer arm, and locate the anvil bolt on the end of the inner arm. Remove the bolt, and apply some red locktite (part # LT37420) to the threads and reassemble the arm. When this... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Bolt about the problem you are having. The first thing you can try is spraying some WD40 down inside the lock through the key hole and let it sit for about 1 hour. My contact said this usually helps a lot when a lock is froze up.
The worst case scenario is that the lock would have to be cut off using an angle grinder or similar tool. Should there be no other option other than to forcibly remove the lock my contact stated that it would be covered under warranty. view full answer...
I spoke to my contact at Bolt and she informed me that it sounds like you are using the emergency key on your 2015 Ram and that is why you are having the issues you are experiencing.
She said the emergency key is small enough that it is hard to get enough torque on the key to turn the lock in the Bolt lock like part # BL7018452. She recommended you use the valet key or the standalone that is given with the truck and it should be easier to use. view full answer...
BOLT does not have a version of their hitch locks that has a straight end. That's interesting that yours is rounding out the hitch pin's hole. There really shouldn't be enough friction between the hitch pin and the hitch pin hole to cause that type of wear. In general the hitch pin does not actually bear any of weight of the trailer since the tongue weight pins the ball mount into the hitch so well that no movement is allowed.
To reduce movement which would cause potential wear an immobilizer... view full answer...
BOLT locks key to the ignition key so that you can have everything unlocked with one key so that you're not carrying as much or as likely to lose the key. I recommend checking the key for the ignition key for the F-150 first to see if he keyed it to that. If not their locks unfortunately can not be rekeyed and there wouldn't be a way for anyone to look up the key he used during the initial installation process.
If this is the case for you then you would need to drill out the lock and... view full answer...
According to Bolt if you are using the emergency key from the FOB for your 2015 Ram it could be hard to get enough leverage to turn the key and unlock the hitch lock. Jiggling while turning may help to unlock the lock with the emergency key.
They lock codes itself to the key when you insert the key, turn it once, and then remove the key. If you inserted the pin before removing the key that could have affected the tumblers inside and permanently coded it wrong. Since they cannot be re-coded... view full answer...
I called my contacts at both Reese and Demco and asked about the differences in the pucks for your 2016 F-250.
It seems with an aftermarket gooseneck puck system like part # RP30126, there is a button bolt that holds the pucks to the rails under the bed of your truck. That bolt is not there when a factory system is installed. The head of the bolt is causing the depth of the puck to be less and causing the locking pins to bottom out.
I called my contact at Demco and they said that you... view full answer...
To tow with a locked out Sidewinder will require you to not have any wedge attached to the pin box since it will need to pivot in that area and the wedge is what locks the Sidewinder to the hitch so that it pivots further back. So if your trailer saver requires a wedge you'd have to remove that if you wanted to lock out the Sidewinder. You should note that you don't have to lock out the Sidewinder just because you go with a long bed truck. The setup will still tow fine and actually would... view full answer...
You are tightening the shackle bolts too much if they are binding up.
The shackle bolts do not require a specific torque rating because tightening the shackle bolts too much will squeeze the shackle straps against the leaf springs and the whole suspension system will bind and cause problems. The best thing to do when tightening down shackle bolts is to use lock nuts and tighten them until they are snug and then backed off 1/4 turn. Lock nuts should be used because they resist loosening... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Timbren and he said more than likely you have not tightened the bolts all the way. He said you are probably hitting the locking mechanism of the lock nut, so you will want to keep tightening the bolts until the gap is reduced to zero. view full answer...
Does the Thule Snug Tite lock # THSTL2 thread into and tighten up on your bike rack just fine? If so then it is possible that the threaded part of the bolt isn't long enough. Removing the washers will allow you to get a few extra threads which could be enough to get a bite and tighten the bolt. If the hitch receiver is wider or the wall thickness is greater than normal that could be the reason.
If the bolt does not tighten in just the bike rack (not installed in the hitch) then the probable... view full answer...
Some wobble is unavoidable with bike racks like the Saris Superclamp # SA4025F. To help limit the wobble, you can use this anti rattle # C27UR. I've used it and it works really well especially for vertical movement. If you haven't already, double check all the bolts on the carrier and when you're tightening down the anti rattle bolt that comes with the rack be sure to wiggle the rack up and down when tightening it. view full answer...
Are you using both the flat washer and the lock washer with the hitch bolt on the Kuat Transfer TS03G? The lock washer would prevent the bolt from backing out. That is unless the threads on either the bolt or the nut in the rack shank are damaged. Also, make sure you are inserting the bolt from the right (passenger's) side. If you put it in the other way there won't be enough threads to thread into the nut. I have not heard of this problem on the Kuat Transfer.
You could use BLUE Loctite... view full answer...
It sounds like the core is not responding to the key. I recommend using some penetrating oil on the inside of the lock core and then driving around for a little bit to let the vibration allow the oil to get into all the small areas. If it is just a frozen pin, this could loosen it so you can remove the core. I would repeat this about 3 times over 24 hours.
If it doesn't work after 3 times and sitting with oil for 24 hours, then you will need to carefully drill out the lock core. You... view full answer...
The BOLT Trailer Hitch Receiver Lock - 2" and 2-1/2" Hitch - Codes to Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep Key # BL7018448 will only work with certain model years and key styles. I've attached a couple photos to assist.
We actually have a video that I've attached of inserting the key and turning it to allow it to code to your key. If you have used any other key in that lock, you will need to replace it because it only codes to the first compatible key that is inserted and turned. You shouldn't need... view full answer...
If the u-bolt was pretty weak to begin with and the wheel was locked and skidding with wheel-hop I could see how things might break.
I would not say it is a common occurrence, but I could see it possibly happening. I would definitely go over the trailer suspension looking for other damaged components and fix as necessary. Since I do not know which u-bolts you will need I attached a link to a page that has all of the u-bolts we carry.
To determine why the brakes are locked up I would begin... view full answer...
Since the lock itself is the issue the only way to really remove it would be to cut it off. You could try drilling out the lock to see it gets loose enough to remove from the hitch pin or you can take an angle grinder to the lock and cut it off. Either way you'll need a replacement so if you want another lock for your Saris SuperClamp EX Bike Rack for 2 Bikes # SA4025F you'll need part # SA3022. view full answer...
The Locking Anti-Rattle, Threaded Hitch Pin for Swagman Hitch Racks part # S64029 is essentially just a bolt so if it won't turn with a wrench you can try to use some lubricant to help free the threads. It can also help to tighten slightly and then attempt to remove. If all else fails you can heat the bolt or cut it off with a grinder. view full answer...
It sounds like you may have gotten some moisture inside your lock which has caused some corrosion and the unit is sticking. You will want to use some penetrating oil inside the lock cylinder to help free the mechanisms inside the lock cylinder so you will be able to get your key in to unlock the lock. view full answer...
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